Split is Croatia's second-largest city and the capital of the Dalmatian coast. Built around the ruins of Diocletian's Palace — a UNESCO World Heritage Site continuously inhabited for over 1,700 years — Split is a rare place where Roman history and Mediterranean beach life coexist in daily routines. The city attracts remote workers, retirees, and entrepreneurs drawn by Adriatic sea views, walkable streets, and a cost of living that undercuts most Western European coastal cities. Tourism is the economic engine, but Split is far more than a summer destination — year-round residents enjoy affordable off-season living, a growing tech scene, and a relaxed pace that's hard to find elsewhere in the EU.
Split at a Glance
Why Move to Split
- UNESCO living history: Diocletian's Palace is not a museum exhibit — it is the city center, filled with shops, restaurants, apartments, and nightlife inside 4th-century Roman walls. Residents walk past 1,700-year-old columns on their morning commute.
- Adriatic coastal living: Over 2,600 hours of sunshine per year, pebble beaches within walking distance of downtown, and quick ferry access to Brač, Hvar, and Vis. Swimming season runs from May through October.
- Affordable off-season costs: From October through May, rental prices drop 30–40% compared to peak summer, and the city keeps its restaurants, markets, and services running for locals rather than tourists.
- EU membership and euro currency: Croatia joined the eurozone in 2023, eliminating currency-exchange friction for most European movers and simplifying banking, salaries, and tax obligations.
- Compact and walkable: Most daily errands, beach trips, and social outings require no car. The entire old town is pedestrian-only, and the bus system covers suburban areas efficiently.
- Island access: Split's port is the main gateway to the central Dalmatian islands. Weekend trips to Brač, Hvar, and Vis are a normal part of life here — not a vacation luxury.
Finding Housing in Split
Average Rents
How to Find Housing
- Njuškalo.hr: Croatia's largest classifieds site; most landlords list here first. Filter by neighborhood, price, and furnished/unfurnished.
- Index oglasi: Popular alternative with a dedicated real-estate section and slightly less tourist-season competition.
- Facebook groups: Search "Split apartments for rent" or "Expats in Split" for direct landlord listings and sublets. Many expats find their first apartment through these groups.
- Local agencies: Agencies like Split Stan and other local firms specialize in furnished apartments and longer leases. Expect a one-month commission, paid by the tenant.
- Spotahoe: A newer rental platform growing in popularity, particularly for furnished apartments targeting expats and digital nomads.
Tips for Expats
- Negotiate off-season leases starting in October — landlords prefer stable, long-term tenants over summer-only rentals. Signing in autumn can save 30–40% compared to summer peak pricing.
- Always request a written rental contract ("Ugovor o najmu") even if the landlord doesn't offer one. This protects both parties and is needed for residency registration.
- Budget separately for utilities: electricity, water, and internet are rarely included in advertised rent. Monthly utilities for an 85 m² apartment average €130–€180.
- Insist on seeing the energy certificate (energetski certifikat); older stone buildings in the old town can be cold in winter and expensive to heat.
- Visit the apartment at different times of day. Old Town units near bars and clubs can be very noisy after midnight during summer.
- Avoid paying more than one month's rent as a deposit. Demand is strong, but anything above one month is unusual in the Croatian market and may signal a scam.
Neighborhoods Guide
- Old Town (Diocletian's Palace): Best for singles and couples who want to live inside a Roman palace. Walking distance to everything — markets, restaurants, the Riva, ferries. Noise from nightlife in summer is significant. Highest rents in the city, and most apartments are small and converted from historic spaces. Limited natural light in some units due to narrow medieval streets.
- Bačvice: Best for beach lovers and young professionals. Famous sandy beach (rare in Split), volleyball courts, and a lively bar scene. Mid-range rents with good bus connections to the center (10 minutes). Family-friendly during the day. Gets crowded in summer but quietens in the off-season.
- Meje: Best for families and retirees seeking peace. Upscale residential streets with sea views, tree-lined paths along the coast, and proximity to Marjan Hill forest park. Quieter than the center, with a mix of older villas and newer apartment buildings. Limited nightlife, which is a plus for most residents here.
- Firule: Best for professionals working at the hospital or university district. Quiet, practical, and well-connected by bus to both the old town and southern suburbs. Home to a well-known beach and the city's main hospital complex. Good value for the location.
- Spinut: Best for budget-conscious families. Modern apartment blocks, nearby supermarkets, schools, and easy access to Marjan Hill for hiking and jogging. Rents are among the lowest in central Split, and the area has a local, non-touristy feel. Slightly further from the old town (15–20 min walk).
- Varoš: Best for those who want character close to the center. Narrow streets, traditional stone houses, and some of the city's best konoba restaurants. Popular with artists and long-term residents. Rents are moderate, but parking is extremely difficult and many streets are too narrow for cars.
Cost of Living in Split
Monthly Budget Breakdown
Day-to-Day Costs
- Coffee (espresso): €1.50–€2.50
- Lunch (casual restaurant): €8–€12
- Monthly bus pass: ~€40
- Beer (domestic, bar): €2.50–€4
- Cinema ticket: €5–€7
- Loaf of bread: €1–€1.50
- 1 liter of milk: €1–€1.30
- Gym membership: €30–€50/month
- Dozen eggs: €2.50–€3.50
- Meal at a mid-range restaurant: €15–€25
Off-Season Advantage
Split's cost of living shifts dramatically between seasons. During summer (June–September), tourist demand inflates rents and restaurant prices, especially in the old town and near the Riva promenade. From October onward, landlords offering year-round leases lower asking prices by 30–40%, and local restaurants revert to gablec (daily lunch specials) for €6–€9. Many long-term expats time their apartment search for September or October to secure the best deals. Supermarket prices and utility costs remain stable year-round. Utility bills actually decrease in winter compared to summer in Split, since air conditioning drives summer electricity costs up more than heating does in the mild winter months.
Seasonal Price Comparison
Saving Money
- Shop at the Pazar (green market) and Peskarija (fish market) for produce at half the supermarket price. Arrive early for the best selection.
- Buy a monthly bus pass instead of single tickets — it saves roughly 30% if you ride daily.
- Cook at home using market ingredients; a couple can eat well on €150–€200/month in groceries.
- Take advantage of off-season restaurant deals. Many konobas in Varoš and along the harbor offer lunch menus at local prices from October through May.
- Consider buying a secondhand bicycle — Split's flat waterfront and compact center make it practical for daily errands, and used bikes sell for €50–€100 on Njuškalo.
Getting Around Split
- Public transport: City bus network run by Promet Split. Single tickets around €1.50; monthly pass ~€40. Covers all major neighborhoods and suburbs. Buses run from roughly 5:00 to 23:00, with reduced schedules on weekends and holidays.
- Cycling: Flat waterfront paths and the Marjan Hill trail are popular, though dedicated bike lanes are limited in the center. E-scooter rentals are available through local apps during the warmer months.
- Driving: Narrow old-town streets are mostly pedestrian-only. Parking is available in garages (Green Garage, Joker Center) at €1–€2/hour. A car is useful for exploring the coast and hinterland but unnecessary for daily life in the center.
- Airport: Split Airport (SPU), 25 km west of the center in Kaštela. Seasonal and year-round flights to London, Frankfurt, Amsterdam, Rome, and other European hubs. Shuttle bus (€5) and taxi (€30–€40) to the city center take 30–40 minutes.
- Intercity: Bus terminal at the harbor connects to Zagreb (5h, €20–€30), Dubrovnik (4.5h, €15–€25), and Zadar (3h). Ferries from Split port serve islands (Brač, Hvar, Vis) and run overnight routes to Ancona, Italy.
- Ride-hailing: Bolt and Uber operate in Split and are reliable alternatives to taxis, typically costing €3–€8 for rides within the city center.
Healthcare in Split
- Hospitals/Clinics: KBC Split (University Hospital Centre) is the largest public hospital in Dalmatia. Several private polyclinics (e.g., Poliklinika Split, Poliklinika Sunce) offer faster appointments, English-speaking staff, and modern facilities.
- English-speaking doctors: Available at private clinics and some public hospital departments, particularly in radiology, cardiology, dentistry, and general practice. Private consultations typically cost €30–€60.
- Pharmacies: Widely available ("ljekarna") with a green cross sign. Many operate on rotating late-night and weekend schedules — check the door for the current rotation. Over-the-counter medications are affordable.
- Dental care: Private dental clinics are popular among expats for both quality and price. Basic cleanings cost €30–€50; more complex procedures are significantly cheaper than in Western Europe. Many expats and medical tourists combine dental work with a Split stay.
- Health insurance: EU citizens can use their EHIC for emergency care. For longer stays, registering with HZZO (Croatian Health Insurance Fund) provides access to the public system. Private health insurance from providers like Allianz or Croatia Osiguranje is also common among expats who want faster specialist access.
- Emergency number: 112 (general emergency) or 194 (ambulance).
Culture & Lifestyle
- Diocletian's Palace: The 4th-century Roman emperor's retirement home is now a living neighborhood of cafés, galleries, and apartments. The Peristil (central square) hosts concerts, opera, and cultural events throughout the year. The palace cellars — remarkably well preserved — are open to visitors and frequently used for exhibitions and small markets. Living next to the palace means sharing your neighborhood with tourists, but also with centuries of visible history.
- Riva promenade: Split's iconic waterfront walkway lined with palm trees, coffee bars, and sea views. Locals use the Riva for their evening korzo (promenade) — a social ritual where the city comes alive between 18:00 and 22:00. The Riva is also the venue for seasonal markets, festival openings, and New Year's celebrations. Off-season, the Riva is the social hub for coffee and conversation.
- Tourism and seasons: Tourism drives much of Split's economy, with the population swelling significantly between June and September. The advantage for expats is that the off-season (October–May) reveals a quieter, more affordable city with a strong local character that peak-season visitors rarely see.
- Festivals and nightlife: Ultra Europe music festival (July, at Poljud stadium), Split Summer Festival (theater and opera performances in open-air venues), and dozens of small bars in the palace basements and along the harbor. Club season peaks June–September. In winter, the nightlife shifts to Varoš and Radunica neighborhoods.
- Outdoor lifestyle: Marjan Hill forest park — Split's "green lung" — offers running, hiking, and rock climbing with panoramic sea views. Beaches range from sandy Bačvice to hidden coves reachable by kayak or short boat rides. Winter hiking on Mosor mountain (30 min drive) is popular among active expats.
- Coffee culture: Split takes its coffee seriously. Long, social coffee sessions are a daily ritual — not a quick takeaway. Don't be surprised if a "coffee" takes two hours. This is how Croatians socialize, do business, and relax.
Food & Dining
- Local specialties: Pašticada (slow-cooked Dalmatian beef in wine sauce), black risotto (crni rižot, made with cuttlefish ink), grilled fresh fish, peka (meat or seafood slow-cooked under a bell-shaped lid), and soparnik (Swiss chard pie, a protected Croatian delicacy from the Dalmatian hinterland).
- Best areas for dining: The Riva waterfront for seafood with a sea view, the Varoš neighborhood for traditional konoba (tavern) restaurants, and the Pazar green market for fresh produce and budget-friendly meals. The Matejuška harbor area near the Riva has casual fish restaurants popular with locals.
- Budget options: Market burek pastries (€1–€2), pizza slices (€2–€3), and daily lunch menus (gablec) at local restaurants for €6–€9. The Pazar market sells seasonal fruit and vegetables at a fraction of supermarket prices. Cooking at home using market ingredients is the most cost-effective approach.
Expat Community
- Meetup groups: Active Facebook communities including "Expats in Split" and "Digital Nomads Split" organize regular social events, language exchanges, and day trips. These groups are the quickest way to build a social circle as a newcomer.
- Coworking spaces: Split has a growing coworking scene — spaces like ScaleUp and Locals'n'Nomads provide dedicated desks, meeting rooms, fast internet, and community events for remote workers. Monthly memberships range from €100–€200.
- Language exchanges: Weekly language exchange nights at bars and cafés in the old town. Croatian classes are available through the University of Split and private language schools. Many expats report that basic conversational Croatian can be picked up within 6–12 months with regular practice.
- Sports and recreation: Running clubs, sailing groups, beach volleyball leagues, and hiking meetups operate year-round. The climbing community around Marjan Hill and Mosor is welcoming to newcomers. Kayak and paddleboard rentals are cheap in the off-season.
- Volunteering: Animal shelters, beach cleanup groups, and community gardens welcome expat volunteers. It's a practical way to practice Croatian and meet locals outside the expat bubble.
Taxes and Banking
- Tax residency: Croatia taxes worldwide income for residents (183+ days per year). Income tax rates are progressive: 20% on annual income up to €60,000 and 30% above that threshold (default national rates; city of Split can adjust within statutory ranges). Local surcharges vary by municipality.
- Banking: Opening a bank account is straightforward with a passport and OIB. Major banks include Zagrebačka Banka, Erste, PBZ, and OTP. Online banking is standard; mobile apps are functional but occasionally limited in English. Euro transfers within SEPA are free and fast.
- Freelancer setup: The paušalni obrt (flat-rate sole proprietorship) is the most popular option for freelancers. It caps annual tax at a flat amount (€150–€500) and simplifies bookkeeping. Registration takes 1–2 weeks through the court register.
Job Market in Split
- Main industries: Tourism and hospitality, shipbuilding (Brodosplit), IT and software development, maritime services, and education.
- Major employers: Brodosplit (shipyard), University of Split, Jadrolinija (ferry company), local government, and a growing cluster of tech startups and outsourcing firms.
- Average salaries by sector:
- Job search resources: MojPosao.net, Posao.hr, LinkedIn, and local Facebook job groups. Remote workers employed by non-Croatian companies often register as sole proprietors (obrt) or use an employer-of-record service for tax compliance.
- Freelancing note: Croatia's paušalni obrt (flat-rate sole proprietorship) is popular among freelancers and digital nomads. It offers simplified accounting and a fixed annual tax of approximately €150–€500 depending on revenue, making it one of the most freelancer-friendly structures in the EU.
- Tourism sector reality: Many jobs in tourism are seasonal (May–October) and pay modest wages. Year-round positions exist in management, marketing, and tech roles supporting tourism companies, but competition is stiff. If your income comes from remote work for a foreign employer, Split's appeal increases significantly.
Education in Split
- International schools: Split does not yet have a full international school offering IB or British curriculum, but several private bilingual programs operate in the wider Dalmatia region. The nearest full international schools are in Zagreb, roughly 5 hours by car or bus.
- Universities: The University of Split offers programs in engineering, humanities, law, medicine, maritime studies, and economics. Tuition for EU citizens is low or free for Croatian-language programs. Some English-taught programs are available at the graduate level, particularly in computer science and business.
- Language schools: Several private schools offer Croatian for foreigners, as well as English, German, and Italian language courses. The University of Split's Croatian Language School is popular with long-term expats and runs intensive summer programs.
- Public schools: Croatian public schools are free for residents. Instruction is in Croatian, so children generally need language support in the first year. Schools in the center and Bačvice area have experience integrating foreign students.
Related Guides
- [Moving to Croatia] — comprehensive country guide covering visas, taxes, and residency
- [Moving to Dubrovnik] — nearby coastal city guide
- [Moving to Zagreb] — Croatia's capital city guide